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Company name: WeRepair Pte Ltd

Call or WhatsApp me at

https://wa.me/6582827733

i'm in MIRC doing repair service for more than 27 yrs. repair and service experience. Change and repair keyboard, LCD screen, battery everything’s we change and repair with warranty.. Tags: macbook , iMac , battery , screen , motherboard repair , screen change , Hp , Asus , think pad , iPad , iPhone , Samsung screen , pc repair , ssd , ram , tv repair , cannot on , screen got line , power supply , chip set , keyboard , touch pad , trackpad Wifi card , Bluetooth replacement , speaker replacement , laptop repair , iMac repair , MacBook Air repair , water , water damage , unable to charge white screen , black screen , mouse pad not working , upgrade ssd , upgrade ram , data recovery , Alienware repair , Razer laptop repair AIO , All in one pc , Mac mini repair , Apple cinema repair , desktop repair , software , Mac OS , screen crack , windows 10 , Hdd spoil , hard disk spoil , Auto restart , auto shut down , gaming laptop repair , too slow lagging , retina lcd , full HD screen , hdmi , Graphics card , broken , logic board , MacBook Pro screen , laptop fan , forget password , reformat ,

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Edited by sgboy_pte_ltd
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  • 1 month later...

Hi. I really hope that you can help me. I was just in a few repair services, and they were ready to solve my question, but I was first confused by their answer, I was also confused by the price they demanded for their work. In addition to the fact that I broke my laptop, I'm not in my hometown at the moment. If I was in my own city, I would turn to Break Fix Now, but that's the way things are. So now about the problem that my laptop has. I got a bad image on my laptop. I suspect I have a broken matrix. So I don't want to risk changing it myself.

Edited by PaulHodges
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10 minutes ago, PaulHodges said:

Hi. I really hope that you can help me. I was just in a few repair services, and they were ready to solve my question, but I was first confused by their answer, I was also confused by the price they demanded for their work.

Give him a call? He left his contact .

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Notebook repair is always never cheap. If you think they are pricey, try bringing them to the original brand official service centre. They know it and what they charge is usually cheaper then you think they might be charging you. If it is a PC case type computer, it is a lot easier but notebook are too specialised.  And they all know it should not cost so much BUT like your health, they KNOW your data could well be life or death to you so.. they charge you a premium.

 

I know that is why I try to maintain all my hardware and look after my PC and Notebook and backup everything and know that each item can not last beyond a few years and not try to be stingy with upgrade or at least save all your data (and porn) in an external drive under lock and key. A repair person who will not look into your data? hahahah I will not bet against them to not do so. So moving forward, know how to hide your stuff better and not think it is not worth your time till something back happens. I know a guy like that. He has some important work files he want to get back from his notebook but he dare not sent it in as it had porn of himself in it. And he use the same notebook for work. Seow. Because of that, he decided to lost his data and it cost him plenty doing so.

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi can anyone advise me please.. thanks..

 

I happened to have a Samsung N230 which looks like a mini laptop. It is brand new and kept for more than 10 yrs

I tested it recently and of course couldn't start up, i guess internal problem since i couldnt start up even when connected to wall socket power.

Friends were telling me to dispose as it is not worth the repair. But i am thinking of having it fix up if it is not too expensive. It still looked really good as it is brand new.

 

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8 hours ago, snsunny said:

Hi can anyone advise me please.. thanks..

 

I happened to have a Samsung N230 which looks like a mini laptop. It is brand new and kept for more than 10 yrs

I tested it recently and of course couldn't start up, i guess internal problem since i couldnt start up even when connected to wall socket power.

Friends were telling me to dispose as it is not worth the repair. But i am thinking of having it fix up if it is not too expensive. It still looked really good as it is brand new.

 

Try this place, they might be able to help... 

 

Lynx IT Services
65 Ubi Road 1,
#03-78, Oxley Bizhub,
Singapore 408729.

(Take lift from lobby 6)

 

+65 6977 7990
+65 8232 6898

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, 

just asking around if there are any recommended on-site servicing you know of for desktop computer.

My Computer is making some intermittent grinding sounds... possibly one of the fans   ??

Everything was ok, till I moved my workstation last month, and the noise started, sometimes sounds

like a revving engine of a scooter...haha. Look forward to some help please.

Cheers, Mike

Edited by mike_amk
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11 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hey guys, 

just asking around if there are any recommended on-site servicing you know of for desktop computer.

My Computer is making some intermittent grinding sounds... possibly one of the fans   ??

Everything was ok, till I moved my workstation last month, and the noise started, sometimes sounds

like a revving engine of a scooter...haha. Look forward to some help please.

Cheers, Mike

 

Dusty fan? Periodically use a high pressure can of compress air to jet through your internal casing.   Have you opened up your computer to take a look? Sometime a simple ribbon of cable might accidentally lean too close to the fan blade and cause the sound. It could also be the bearing of the fan causing the sound... if the sound only happen when you power on your PC, it is usually one of those thing or something drop in the PSU grill slightly and touching the fan blade to cause that resonating sound.  Very easy fix.

 

Btw you still using CD Drive? That is another POSSIBLE culprit.

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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On 3/29/2021 at 2:43 PM, mike_amk said:

Hey guys, 

just asking around if there are any recommended on-site servicing you know of for desktop computer.

My Computer is making some intermittent grinding sounds... possibly one of the fans   ??

Everything was ok, till I moved my workstation last month, and the noise started, sometimes sounds

like a revving engine of a scooter...haha. Look forward to some help please.

Cheers, Mike

 

Mike, How? Have you open it to clean it of dust bunnies or detected any cabling ribbon being too close to the fan blades? heheh.. Not sure, take a photo and let me see via PM. Fans in general are not too expensive it is only the better ones with bearing, RBG LED lighting  that cost more. But a oem fan is a couple of bucks. If you can replace it (if it is damaged yourself) it would be cheaper than to lug a PC unit all the way to like Sim Lim Sq or some Perdure outlet near MRT stations.

 

Accumulated dust coating the fan blades cause un-smooth air flow on the blade spining and at high speed can cause vibration that emit that grinding sound too especially if the spindle is worn down and cheap fans usually have no bearings which makes it worst as it age.

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Bro,

 

I have tried to blow out the dust as much as possible... but the noise is still there intermittently.

 

I'm wondering if you know any good IT guys that may come over and help troubleshoot this Desktop computer issue.

 I just don't want to take it to any shop in Simlim square.

 

Cheers, Mike

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2 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hi Bro,

 

I have tried to blow out the dust as much as possible... but the noise is still there intermittently.

 

I'm wondering if you know any good IT guys that may come over and help troubleshoot this Desktop computer issue.

 I just don't want to take it to any shop in Simlim square.

 

Cheers, Mike

I saw the photo of it you PM.  The rear fan looks clean. When you put a finger there to stop the spin, you hear any sound? And when you do the same with the CPU fan and also stick a thin stick to halt the fan inside the grill of your PSU (Power unit at the base) When you do that, does the sound stop? Actually with the cover pen you should be able to hear exactly where the sound is from.

 

I have no contact for repair. I do and setup all my own PC for decades heheh... So for sure I do not know a PLU tech for sure LOL.

 

And in any case if someone do not know what is wrong with the PC, it is going to be more than one trip to look it over and bring parts to replace, someone has to bring almost every part that makes up a NEW PC just to replace the faulty part(s) in your system to save a second trip. I think it is a fan and if so, the cost to make two trips to you place will cost you more than the price of a mid-price quality fan hehehe.

 

If it is not the fan that is making that noise. The problem is a lot worse. It means YOUR HDD spindle mechanism is breaking down. And grinding sound from a HDD usually mean a drive that is about to die. Then your data is at risk.

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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18 minutes ago, upshot said:

I saw the photo of it you PM.  The rear fan looks clean. When you put a finger there to stop the spin, you hear any sound? And when you do the same with the CPU fan and also stick a thin stick to halt the fan inside the grill of your PSU (Power unit at the base) When you do that, does the sound stop? Actually with the cover pen you should be able to hear exactly where the sound is from.

 

I have no contact for repair. I do and setup all my own PC for decades heheh... So for sure I do not know a PLU tech for sure LOL.

 

And in any case if someone do not know what is wrong with the PC, it is going to be more than one trip to look it over and bring parts to replace, someone has to bring almost every part that makes up a NEW PC just to replace the faulty part(s) in your system to save a second trip. I think it is a fan and if so, the cost to make two trips to you place will cost you more than the price of a mid-price quality fan hehehe.

 

If it is not the fan that is making that noise. The problem is a lot worse. It means YOUR HDD spindle mechanism is breaking down. And grinding sound from a HDD usually mean a drive that is about to die. Then your data is at risk.

 

If it is the fan from the CPU cooler unit, you are talking about buying an entirely new CPU cooler unit and there are many types.. I personally use water cooled system. There are fan type of course and it all depends on what typer you want and also how big your casing or you want a cheap basic one which I hope would suffice to cool your CPU.

So.. ya.. you could be looking at quite a variety of likely option.

 

So if you can distill it down to which fan or where the noise is comeing from, the easier it is to deduce what is wrong and then it gets easier to solve it. If it is pretty straight forward, I can come down to help you. I have some spare fans around from all my previous builds as i do not use OEM fans, I tend to upgrade to better parts for all my gaming rigs.

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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4 hours ago, upshot said:

 

If it is the fan from the CPU cooler unit, you are talking about buying an entirely new CPU cooler unit and there are many types.. I personally use water cooled system. There are fan type of course and it all depends on what typer you want and also how big your casing or you want a cheap basic one which I hope would suffice to cool your CPU.

So.. ya.. you could be looking at quite a variety of likely option.

 

So if you can distill it down to which fan or where the noise is comeing from, the easier it is to deduce what is wrong and then it gets easier to solve it. If it is pretty straight forward, I can come down to help you. I have some spare fans around from all my previous builds as i do not use OEM fans, I tend to upgrade to better parts for all my gaming rigs.

Hey bro,

Thanks so much for the troubleshooting info.

I'll have to get down and check the 4 fans... hopefully it is one of them and not the HDD!

 

Perhaps I'll consider upgrading the cooling system to a fluid cooled one if possible.

Keep you posted :) 

Cheers, Mike

 

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9 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hey bro,

Thanks so much for the troubleshooting info.

I'll have to get down and check the 4 fans... hopefully it is one of them and not the HDD!

 

Perhaps I'll consider upgrading the cooling system to a fluid cooled one if possible.

Keep you posted :) 

Cheers, Mike

 

Sure thing. Usually many would like to take it back as all their equipment and parts at hand to make system check and repair than in your home. If not, there will be too many back and forth trips making it impractical UNLESS problem is simple requiring minor tweaks to software, adjust cabling or clean some parts. Or they brought the right parts by chance because you gave them very reliable symptom briefing that help them anticipate what really is wrong.

 

Water cool is good (but pricier), ALSO this depends on your casing's ability to accept a bulkier, more complex CPU attachment requirement and lots more interior space to fit the cooler fan system/grill inside. That is why I always use mid-size gaming tower casing for all my build, so air circulation is good and can take on larger more efficient power cooling system and components..ie for the building and future upgrades.  Unfortunately sometime when you start to upgrade a existing PC.. a lot of factor comes into consideration and this is where stuff gets a little more complex.

 

I hope it is just the fan. If it is a HDD, if you can still access it and if it contains 'spicy' stuff... time to back it up ASAP before you pass this on to the tech. AND I nope those spicy stuff are NOT on the same HDD as your C:\Drive where Windows resides. Because what is erased by normal means and even deleted from trash can.. it STILL CAN BE RETRIEVED by specialised software... if a dishonest guy want to be sneaky and nosy.

 

AND note, just because you THINK a PLU Guy will be more trustworthy respecting what you have? HUMAN ARE HUMAN and a PLU with a pervy kapor mentality is more dangerous as curiosity might tempt him even more then a normal str8 techie. So I never subscribe to this overrated idea that a PLU (is more trusting because he is one of us) will respect or understand the privacy of a PLU. There are shitty people and good.. PLU or NOT makes no different.  BUT for sure you can trust me hahahahahahahahah

 

Anyway not sure how PC literate you are bro. So I am lying it on a bit thick with the tech information. Context. I am always about context when I add my two cents in BW. heheh.

 

For fans there are two types mainly.. high air flow (like the one I see in your rear white fan) and high static pressure (like the one to cool the grill block over the CPU). They are different in how they move air. The latter with force as it needs to push air thru something like a cooling grill of a block of HDDs in the way. Self builder like me, tend to be critical in using the right fan to move air around as higher end performance PC generate a lot of heat- from going in to the PC casing and how it is expelled at the rear or bottom. Looking at the design of the blades will tell you which type is used or spot the same type to lower cost. Just thought I give you some of these details so you know when talking to a techie if you intend to let someone come repair it for you and ask you what you want. Or what they are charging you for. There is a diff in price. Do not get the RGB.. you pay more for them and not like them months from now LOL.

 

Replacing them can be easy like that rear white fan in your photo but it can get complicated if they require a certain part to be removed like fan(s) situated in the front in-between part of the HDD/component rack and frontal case cover/grill structure. Some cases are designed for DIY but computer system build and assembled in factory, they are not built with building 'enthusiast friendly' in mind. And parts can break in the process of taking apart especially an old and brittle casing. And some parts meant to come together one time and not take apart.

 

Await your result from checking the fan bro. Let's see if it gets easier or 'interesting' LOL :P

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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7 hours ago, upshot said:

Sure thing. Usually many would like to take it back as all their equipment and parts at hand to make system check and repair than in your home. If not, there will be too many back and forth trips making it impractical UNLESS problem is simple requiring minor tweaks to software, adjust cabling or clean some parts. Or they brought the right parts by chance because you gave them very reliable symptom briefing that help them anticipate what really is wrong.

 

Water cool is good (but pricier), ALSO this depends on your casing's ability to accept a bulkier, more complex CPU attachment requirement and lots more interior space to fit the cooler fan system/grill inside. That is why I always use mid-size gaming tower casing for all my build, so air circulation is good and can take on larger more efficient power cooling system and components..ie for the building and future upgrades.  Unfortunately sometime when you start to upgrade a existing PC.. a lot of factor comes into consideration and this is where stuff gets a little more complex.

 

I hope it is just the fan. If it is a HDD, if you can still access it and if it contains 'spicy' stuff... time to back it up ASAP before you pass this on to the tech. AND I nope those spicy stuff are NOT on the same HDD as your C:\Drive where Windows resides. Because what is erased by normal means and even deleted from trash can.. it STILL CAN BE RETRIEVED by specialised software... if a dishonest guy want to be sneaky and nosy.

 

AND note, just because you THINK a PLU Guy will be more trustworthy respecting what you have? HUMAN ARE HUMAN and a PLU with a pervy kapor mentality is more dangerous as curiosity might tempt him even more then a normal str8 techie. So I never subscribe to this overrated idea that a PLU (is more trusting because he is one of us) will respect or understand the privacy of a PLU. There are shitty people and good.. PLU or NOT makes no different.  BUT for sure you can trust me hahahahahahahahah

 

Anyway not sure how PC literate you are bro. So I am lying it on a bit thick with the tech information. Context. I am always about context when I add my two cents in BW. heheh.

 

For fans there are two types mainly.. high air flow (like the one I see in your rear white fan) and high static pressure (like the one to cool the grill block over the CPU). They are different in how they move air. The latter with force as it needs to push air thru something like a cooling grill of a block of HDDs in the way. Self builder like me, tend to be critical in using the right fan to move air around as higher end performance PC generate a lot of heat- from going in to the PC casing and how it is expelled at the rear or bottom. Looking at the design of the blades will tell you which type is used or spot the same type to lower cost. Just thought I give you some of these details so you know when talking to a techie if you intend to let someone come repair it for you and ask you what you want. Or what they are charging you for. There is a diff in price. Do not get the RGB.. you pay more for them and not like them months from now LOL.

 

Replacing them can be easy like that rear white fan in your photo but it can get complicated if they require a certain part to be removed like fan(s) situated in the front in-between part of the HDD/component rack and frontal case cover/grill structure. Some cases are designed for DIY but computer system build and assembled in factory, they are not built with building 'enthusiast friendly' in mind. And parts can break in the process of taking apart especially an old and brittle casing. And some parts meant to come together one time and not take apart.

 

Await your result from checking the fan bro. Let's see if it gets easier or 'interesting' LOL :P

 

 

 

 

 

Hey there bro,

 

Thanks for the heaps of  info. :thumb:

I've finally managed to open the casing and ran the PC to troubleshoot.

The two side vent fans are good and silent, as well as the power supply fan.

 

The problem is with the cooling system fan... it struggles to rotate... and then vibrates when it does, causing the sound.

And the heat exchanger did get fairly warm as the fan struggles to rotate and vent cool air through.

 

I'm now contemplating instead of just replacing the fan of the cooling device, it may seem better to explore the fluid cooling retrofit.

There seems to be a fair bit of space in this mid-tower case.

Hope you could point me in the direction of the better longer term solution, as I leave this computer switched on for weeks at a go.

Cheers, Mike :) 

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hey there bro,

 

Thanks for the heaps of  info. :thumb:

I've finally managed to open the casing and ran the PC to troubleshoot.

The two side vent fans are good and silent, as well as the power supply fan.

 

The problem is with the cooling system fan... it struggles to rotate... and then vibrates when it does, causing the sound.

And the heat exchanger did get fairly warm as the fan struggles to rotate and vent cool air through.

 

I'm now contemplating instead of just replacing the fan of the cooling device, it may seem better to explore the fluid cooling retrofit.

There seems to be a fair bit of space in this mid-tower case.

Hope you could point me in the direction of the better longer term solution, as I leave this computer switched on for weeks at a go.

Cheers, Mike :) 

 

Okay that simply mean its your CPU cooling system.

 

I would not advise to get water cool system. For one, your system is older. What spec are the parts?

 

Water cooling does not mean you get it cooler...etc. The best water cooler are custom-built costing 4 figure. So likely, you are looking at one of those 'all-in-one' water cooler which are marginally cheaper but still a challenge to install inside your casing as well as other factors to consider. 

 

Those 'all-in-one' water cool system need good height clearance. Your mid tower looks like those compact mid size version. You need enough headroom above the CPU/edge of the motherboard to hold the twin fan AND radiator system which would mean 2 inch or more of thickness. I see you have a top with air vents which is good. Hopefully the screw holes location are compatible to mount and suspend the twin fans/radiator.

 

If they do not fit, you end up having to buy a new casing. Then we are talking reinstalling your entire system hardware into a new casing and wiring it up. I am not sure how old is your system. Thus if that is worth doing. That is the thing with changing some parts and reusing others. Some parts do not mix well. Newer generation might be incompatible in many ways. Without considering carefully, you buy one part, bring home and install it successfully in the motherboard BUT then you find it protruding out too much, your casing cover can not close! In Singapore, you buy and open the box, very likely no refund or exchange. Or bring home a pricey $200 water cooler system that is cool looking but can't fit inside or motherboard too weak or incompatible to hold contact head in place to the motherboard, without correct screw points, the water tubes conveying water to or from the CPU is too thick and rigid to bend nicely in tight area or badly positioned adjacent to the Ram stick situated very close to the CPU position... etc. You get what I mean? Not all casing and motherboard are made the same. It is not easy without figuring all the dimensions out before you decide.

 

My recommendation, something newer and similar to what you have now from brand like CoolerMaster (Fan base with disipating multi-metal fins) will more than do and for a lot cheaper like $50-$90 (mid to high) and simpler to install.

 

From what I figure about your system, a fan cool system will do. No need to get over-powered parts heheh.. If you are not an overclocker like me, you do not need to get a cooling system that can take the temp down by a lot. I overclock my CPU, RAM and Graphic cards to 30-40% higher. And overclocking also mean you kill them faster.

 

Now that you figure out it is your CPU cooling fan that is the problem. You just need a new one about mid size should be fine. Buy some CPU thermal clay to replace what is smeared between the contact surfaces of CPU and Cooler copper contact. Since you are changing the cooler, might as well clean and resurface for better heat conduction. Long overdue I suspect. Helps a heap since your system run all day. I take it yours is intel and not AMD CPU?

 

Internet use do not need overclocking heheh.. I game really hard on my systems running GTX 1080Ti 11 gig card and RTX 3060 gig (waiting for my sexy baby GTX3090) on i7 and i9 CPUs respectively driving 21:9 screen and 16:10 4K. I confess I spend more on tech toys than sex toys by a factor of 1000. heheh So cooling is crucial for me. If your system is comparatively older, putting in really good bits now are not going to help due to older existing parts being the bottlenecks. Computers do not like bottlenecks. You have to change your entire system to ensure all the pathways are running max to each other to ensure you have no 'road blocks'. Its like you prep a Formula 1 race car for racing, tune top engine, good driver and solid suspension and then you put cheap tires on it. No use. heheh

 

I have no idea what brand of parts, power and year your pc parts are to safely say, what parts change will make it better or be as fast for it's age and pedigree. SO I am giving you just the broad stroke.  A tech guy whom you pay to do this will also be telling you this if he is really waiting to help you. And hopefully not con you to get parts you do not really need or benefit your system. So note what I tell you as more CONTEXT. heheh

 

upshotpc.thumb.jpg.9f2eebe5dece92185212a3e3e9b795e7.jpg


* Note how much space is required for a water cool? And see how thick the water cable are. You see why my water cooler I bought for the NZXT logo to have that infinite logo on it but end up side way because the two water cable is block my two RGB Ram slots on the right.. heheh... sometime you think of everything and then one mistake... can not exchange but to live with it.

 

The color shaded area is how THICK the cooling fan and radiator will take up for space.. so by comparison, your PC casing do not have the space for it.
 

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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Mike, I can take a look see if you want me to take a physical look at it if given enough advance notice.

 

One more thing to note. Clean the casing interior of dust bunnies ... use like a high pressure air spray canister would be great to blow them out. You can buy that from Challenger or some IT hardware shop. Open the casing cover on both sides, bring unit outside your home and blow shit away heheh 

 

Dust bunnies build heat making your interior hot and toasty and limit air flow in and out of your casing. And dust that are coating moving parts also will produce noise due to airflow imbalance from the dusty coating on the fan's blades. It's like your old school home fan when too much dust gather, the airflow strength is lost even at full spin. Same thing happens with this kind of fan system. You can try that on the CPU fan to wipe the dust coating from the blades to see if the sound goes away.

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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43 minutes ago, upshot said:

Mike, I can take a look see if you want me to take a physical look at it if given enough advance notice.

 

One more thing to note. Clean the casing interior of dust bunnies ... use like a high pressure air spray canister would be great to blow them out. You can buy that from Challenger or some IT hardware shop. Open the casing cover on both sides, bring unit outside your home and blow shit away heheh 

 

Dust bunnies build heat making your interior hot and toasty and limit air flow in and out of your casing. And dust that are coating moving parts also will produce noise due to airflow imbalance from the dusty coating on the fan's blades. It's like your old school home fan when too much dust gather, the airflow strength is lost even at full spin. Same thing happens with this kind of fan system. You can try that on the CPU fan to wipe the dust coating from the blades to see if the sound goes away.

Hey bro,

thanks for the info once again.

I've measured the cooling fan and it is 120mm.

I guess going by what you've suggested, the fluid system appears to be a no go.

therefore I'll need to find a way to remove the old fan and install a new one.

It would be really appreciated if you could look at the rig and help with the 

repair please...rather than me buying stuff that won't fit...hehe

Cheers, Mike :) 

 

 

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1 hour ago, mike_amk said:

Hey bro,

thanks for the info once again.

I've measured the cooling fan and it is 120mm.

I guess going by what you've suggested, the fluid system appears to be a no go.

therefore I'll need to find a way to remove the old fan and install a new one.

It would be really appreciated if you could look at the rig and help with the 

repair please...rather than me buying stuff that won't fit...hehe

Cheers, Mike :) 

 

 

120mm is one of the standard fan you can buy. And it is likely a static air pusher type. But....

 

I can not be sure I can repair if the fan is damage and the fan is a manufactured PART of the whole CPU fan cooling system. Some can not be replaced as fan is sealed on as part of the cooling fins contraption or needs an original brand part fan replacement. There are companies that  rather force you to buy their special proprietary part as replacement. Not sure if you know what i mean. And in any case I can not tell from the photo. So that means even if I go down to look it over, if fan is broken, we are talking making at least one trip down to Sim Lim Sq to buy the replacement. And we can only know upon examination what the next step will be. That is why tech people would want to take your system back to their workshop to work on it. So we are talking a certain amount of time will be involved including going to buy the part(s) so keep that in mind on your available time to do this.

 

So cleaning it only takes a few minutes if you have the right tools but once done and it still makes the noise, it will mean a replacing of a new cooling fan system like the one I have link here as reference to what I mean.

 

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1aNN3XifrK1RjSspbq6A4pFXaZ/Mini-PC-CPU-Cooler-Single-Silent-Fan-2-Copper-Pipe-Computer-Case-Cooler-Red.jpg
 

https://www.ozgameshop.com/heatsinks/cooler-master-hyper-212x-4-heatpipe-1x-120-pwm-fan-tower-cpu-cooler

 

 

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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On 4/15/2021 at 5:54 PM, mike_amk said:

Hey bro,

thanks for the info once again.

I've measured the cooling fan and it is 120mm.

I guess going by what you've suggested, the fluid system appears to be a no go.

therefore I'll need to find a way to remove the old fan and install a new one.

It would be really appreciated if you could look at the rig and help with the 

repair please...rather than me buying stuff that won't fit...hehe

Cheers, Mike :) 

 

Okay I found fans I can spare. Never used. But has performance bearing, silent rubber screw dampers (without screws- can't find them but you said yours use zipline which I have) Did not use these as I upgraded to higher performing RGB versions so this are spares bought but not used. I keep around in case I needed them for building or repairs my other older systems for family members. So be assured, I am not making you settle with bad qty ones that do not last. This is the best I can do bro. I only hope we do not have to dismantle and take out the main heating fins setup from the CPU mount as I do not have any more thermal clay for reapplying to the CPU. The small tube I had is dried out and can't be used. If not, hope what is still smeared between the surface of the CPU and Conducting plate of the cooler will suffice. A good seal is crucial to conduct heat.

 

That's the most I can help at no cost. If the situation is a lot worst or you need more work on it, you have to pay a pro to do this. Hope you understand this. Just one bro helping another where he can and you are not a GUEST but someone here long like me. And I am not doing this for sex too, I am not that shallow heheheh so rest assure... this is the same upright no BS UPSHOT as I always am. Just a PC nerd who love PCs.  :P

 

Just to be clear. heheheh... Don't want anyone to take this the wrong way. LOL

 

fans.jpg.98df5cd1502150eb353eb67a65405fea.jpg

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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Anyone knows of any good shop to repair portable hard disk? My WD HDD suddenly become not detectable and I got loads of animation inside which I just wanna transfer out. Plus a handful of NSFW videos. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

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On 4/15/2021 at 7:23 PM, upshot said:

120mm is one of the standard fan you can buy. And it is likely a static air pusher type. But....

 

I can not be sure I can repair if the fan is damage and the fan is a manufactured PART of the whole CPU fan cooling system. Some can not be replaced as fan is sealed on as part of the cooling fins contraption or needs an original brand part fan replacement. There are companies that  rather force you to buy their special proprietary part as replacement. Not sure if you know what i mean. And in any case I can not tell from the photo. So that means even if I go down to look it over, if fan is broken, we are talking making at least one trip down to Sim Lim Sq to buy the replacement. And we can only know upon examination what the next step will be. That is why tech people would want to take your system back to their workshop to work on it. So we are talking a certain amount of time will be involved including going to buy the part(s) so keep that in mind on your available time to do this.

 

So cleaning it only takes a few minutes if you have the right tools but once done and it still makes the noise, it will mean a replacing of a new cooling fan system like the one I have link here as reference to what I mean.

 

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1aNN3XifrK1RjSspbq6A4pFXaZ/Mini-PC-CPU-Cooler-Single-Silent-Fan-2-Copper-Pipe-Computer-Case-Cooler-Red.jpg
 

https://www.ozgameshop.com/heatsinks/cooler-master-hyper-212x-4-heatpipe-1x-120-pwm-fan-tower-cpu-cooler

 

 

Hey there bro,

Thanks for the update... I'm glad that you've some spare fans kicking about in your store...hehe... hope it can be retrofitted onto my heatsink.

As for the thermal clay/grease ... perhaps I may swing by an IT shop and buy a tube just in case the contact area between the CPU and heatsink's faceplate needs a new application of thermal grease to enable better thermal conductivity between the two.

My main concern at this point would be the reattachment of the fan to the underside of the heatsink using cable ties... not entirely sure how much these cable ties could withstand when things really heat up!!

I may look around for some metal spring clip fasteners as an alternative just in case. :) 

 

Really appreciate your kind assistance in lending a hand with this bro.

Oh... just to add some peace of mind with regards to data storage, I'm getting a Synology data bank device soon about 4 Tb capacity, so as to keep most of my stuff out of the HDD in the PC, this would make things a heck of a lot less worrisome when the need to send the PC to a shop in the future ...hehe

Anyway bro, thanks once again... much appreciated.

Have a great weekend. CYA !

Cheers,  Mike  :) 🍷🍷 

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2 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hey there bro,

Thanks for the update... I'm glad that you've some spare fans kicking about in your store...hehe... hope it can be retrofitted onto my heatsink.

As for the thermal clay/grease ... perhaps I may swing by an IT shop and buy a tube just in case the contact area between the CPU and heatsink's faceplate needs a new application of thermal grease to enable better thermal conductivity between the two.

My main concern at this point would be the reattachment of the fan to the underside of the heatsink using cable ties... not entirely sure how much these cable ties could withstand when things really heat up!!

I may look around for some metal spring clip fasteners as an alternative just in case. :) 

 

Really appreciate your kind assistance in lending a hand with this bro.

Oh... just to add some peace of mind with regards to data storage, I'm getting a Synology data bank device soon about 4 Tb capacity, so as to keep most of my stuff out of the HDD in the PC, this would make things a heck of a lot less worrisome when the need to send the PC to a shop in the future ...hehe

Anyway bro, thanks once again... much appreciated.

Have a great weekend. CYA !

Cheers,  Mike  :) 🍷🍷 

The Synology backup will be a GREAT buy for sure via network cable connect for best thru-put or at least USB 3. Reliable brand. I use a ton of backup storage systems due to my photography/design work/video/Flac-Mp3 DJ music crates over the decades. 3 tier BACKUP hahah.. Kiasu but a safe state of mind. 4T is decent for general use but usage climbs fast if you start to take lots of photo/video. A smart move if anyone keeps anything spicy for sure heheh. I out-live those bad habits now.. it is all on the 'Cloud' behind very long passwords phrases. :P

Ya just a thin syringe of thermal paste would be fine. Do not get anything larger in capacity as they will not last long and trend to harden.  Just need a small spurt of it :P

I am not confident with zip tie instead of the usual long screws to anchor to a grill fin. First time I am doing this though I have seen it on office system and friends' PCs. It is not firm and vibration damping is ineffective. Even the rubbers inserts in the Corsair Fan (in the photo) will not be used properly as the zip tie goes into the screw's opening but also over the side cornets as it strap to whatever part of the grill to hold in place. Will conduct vibration over time as dust coat the blades. This is very typical of brand that mass  built PCs for sale, they cut corner and use Frankenstein parts heh. They use or let you choose good parts as a 'top up' but some of the structural parts they compromise to save a buck..

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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7 hours ago, Steman said:

Anyone knows of any good shop to repair portable hard disk? My WD HDD suddenly become not detectable and I got loads of animation inside which I just wanna transfer out. Plus a handful of NSFW videos. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

Change the external chassis (Which are sold as a shell for DIY) that holds a generic HDD inside that function as a basic connection to your PC to access.  This only solve a physical hardware problem if the interface which is part of the external chassis is damaged. An interface is not part of the HDD but is a PCM board that is part of the chassis. It is what act as the intermediate junction between any HDD you connect to it and from the other end, let you attach a USB cable to connect to your PC or devices to access the HDD. Not that hard to replace if you open the unit up and look at what cables connect to what. Is this those external HDD you buy off the shelf that you just connect and access?

 

BUT if this is an intelligent WD HDD product you bought that comes with connectivity features like wireless or network and other backup security software and controls..etc. Those that require software installation to setup the use and has password feature and hardware security, that is more complicated. Buying a new external casing will not work as those kind need a dedicated replacement casing to work.

 

Either cases above, just about solving an interface connectivity problem not HDD problem.

 

The bigger problem is a HDD that has crashed, died or damage. Which is why your PC can not detect it. In that case, things get more complicated and depends on how extensive that breakdown is inside the HDD itself.

 

Sim Lim Square upper floors has a few repair stores to fix hardware if you are not PC savvy. I have send some HDDs from my former company there for repair when I can not solve them but can't recall the store name as I have not done this in years. They are all about the same. Maybe some guys here will know a specific one to refer you.

 

There are a few ways they can solve it and even on the spot make some connectivity check but be prepared that if basic method can not detect or solve the damage issue on your HDD, they will recommend more lengthy and sophisticated analysis and likely you have to pay for the attempt as it can take hours if not days running your HDD to do a detailed slow computational surface read. They will explain that to you.

 

I hope this is the regular size 3.5 HDD and not those notebooks compact size HDD.. The latter I never trust to use more than 2 yrs. If you access it a lot and transport about, they crash or spoil a lot quicker and are less liikely to be salvage then the larger 3.5" HDDs. Had a boss who does that and stubborn to listen as he trust no one to have a spare lying about (techno idiot). And less than a year later, it happened. Just once was all he needed and he lost some very expensive data. Went so far to pay $1.5k for a clean room analysis and retrieve, he got nothing back.

 

Never EVER wait too long backup or practice a double backup and also change HDD every couple of years depending on how often you use it. And if you use SSD that is even worse if you read and write often. As small as they are..INCLUDING your SD cards, CF cards, MicroSSD cards... all this use chipset with 'off-on switches' to store your data BUT note that they do this by flipping these tiny switched off and on. This is how your data are stored. The larger the capacity the more tiny switches there are. What you need to know,SSD type cards can only write-flip about 4 million times off-on before it FAILS FOR EACH TINY SWITCH. If you write to a SSD one time and read multiple times, that is OKAY. But if you use it in your camera or phone and read-write a lot... you have no idea when it will die till you check it with certain software. The smaller the capacity, the shorter the life span. There is an algorithm built into the SSD PCM to spread out the flipping of those microswitches so It is likely 2-3 years for average write/rewrite usage but do you dare trust your data to one SSD card? This is where you hear stories of Wedding photographers who while shooting a session, and suddenly they chime thru their shots in review and found the card does not work or rolls of black screen image shots. Sometime if you spot some distorted images that turn up for no reason on a card you use for a few years. That is a GOOD WARNING that its time to stop using that memory card.

 

Okay more information than anyone need but relevant if you love keeping stored data FYI. CONTEXT.

 

 

 

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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On 4/17/2021 at 2:53 PM, upshot said:

The Synology backup will be a GREAT buy for sure via network cable connect for best thru-put or at least USB 3. Reliable brand. I use a ton of backup storage systems due to my photography/design work/video/Flac-Mp3 DJ music crates over the decades. 3 tier BACKUP hahah.. Kiasu but a safe state of mind. 4T is decent for general use but usage climbs fast if you start to take lots of photo/video. A smart move if anyone keeps anything spicy for sure heheh. I out-live those bad habits now.. it is all on the 'Cloud' behind very long passwords phrases. :P

Ya just a thin syringe of thermal paste would be fine. Do not get anything larger in capacity as they will not last long and trend to harden.  Just need a small spurt of it :P

I am not confident with zip tie instead of the usual long screws to anchor to a grill fin. First time I am doing this though I have seen it on office system and friends' PCs. It is not firm and vibration damping is ineffective. Even the rubbers inserts in the Corsair Fan (in the photo) will not be used properly as the zip tie goes into the screw's opening but also over the side cornets as it strap to whatever part of the grill to hold in place. Will conduct vibration over time as dust coat the blades. This is very typical of brand that mass  built PCs for sale, they cut corner and use Frankenstein parts heh. They use or let you choose good parts as a 'top up' but some of the structural parts they compromise to save a buck..

Hey there Bro,

I really thank you so much for taking the time to help me sort out the repair of the CPU Heatsink cooling system.

I just loved that you shared so much knowledge on these things, and got me up to speed on the essentials.

My PC has been running smoothly after you've installed the new fan, and more importantly Silent !!  hehe... I was driving the neighbour nuts with all that racket coming from that worn out fan revving along like a mini scooter....hahaha 😂😂

 

Once again my thanks bro, have a great day, catch for tea sometime :thumb:

Cheers, Mike🍷

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2 hours ago, mike_amk said:

Hey there Bro,

I really thank you so much for taking the time to help me sort out the repair of the CPU Heatsink cooling system.

I just loved that you shared so much knowledge on these things, and got me up to speed on the essentials.

My PC has been running smoothly after you've installed the new fan, and more importantly Silent !!  hehe... I was driving the neighbour nuts with all that racket coming from that worn out fan revving along like a mini scooter....hahaha 😂😂

 

Once again my thanks bro, have a great day, catch for tea sometime :thumb:

Cheers, Mike🍷

 

No prob... Free time due to not working and small matter for a fellow BW kaki. We had chat exchanges for a long while over threads and PM, good to meet in person and verbally chat than type!! :P  Way-way-way faster to explain technical matters and in context.

 

Your PC is still good to go for another couple of years given the kind of application you run. Just keep track of the temperature 'cooking' your CPU and keep dust bunnies at bay.

 

There are shareware software that allow you to monitor and display temperature data of key components of your system. (or comes with your PC packaged as diagnostic s/w) So long it stays in the positive range, you are fine. Concern is bordering 'red-line' heat level, (short of triggered CPU shutdown from excessive heat spike) this forces your CPU/motherboard to auto throttle down performance level and your PC would seem slowed due to lowered computation speed activated by your motherboard/CPU to safeguard itself from heat spike.

 

Not realizing it, you might think your PC is just ageing and end up using it 'as it is' for months if not years without thinking you could have done something about it and bring performance back up heheheh.. and slow cooking it and shortening it's life span. I suffered from short life CPU on my PCs BUT I did it intentionally because I over-clocking for gaming and performance. :P  Not the same situation.

 

Seen it often with older neglected PCs at companies I worked with no IT dept to service them and non-tech savvy users. Do occasional sprucing-up of the interior by check fans working condition, dust bunnies, thermal paste replacing and clearing cabling clutter to improve air flow can refresh and reclaim lost CPU power by a big factor. Plus extents its lifespan before needing to upgrade sooner and save some money too.

 

For now, no need for water cooling option. hehe. When it does, you know where to find me if ever you need a hand.

 

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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  • 4 weeks later...

For laptop owners, it is practical to know how to remove the back cover to view the internal components.  When in doubt, YouTube has plenty of videos on how to disassemble many models of laptops.  This ability can help to self-improve the laptop, like installing an SSD, or more memory, and also to search for strange noises, clean dust, replace fans, etc.   It is a good idea to own a good set of jeweler screwdrivers. 

 

About concern of porn stored in a computer that needs service,  it is very easy to store all of one's porn in encrypted files.  Since many decades ago I use this old free program 'TrueCrypt'.  There may be something better today, but I see no need for that.  It is easy to create an encrypted volume, mount and dismount it, and access it like any other disk to write/read on the File Explorer.  It does not even need a very complicated password,  just sufficient to keep curious eyes off our stuff.

.

Edited by Steve5380
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1 hour ago, practease said:

Are there programs available to destroy a a hard disk in totality and make data retrieval next to impossible? I am not looking to bash it to pieces with a bat...

Search HDD or SSD eraser depending on what kind of drive you have. See if it's running off CD or USB.

 

Company uses this but not sure if it's any good. https://www.blancco.com/

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On 5/19/2021 at 6:22 PM, practease said:

Are there programs available to destroy a a hard disk in totality and make data retrieval next to impossible? I am not looking to bash it to pieces with a bat...

 

If that is what you want to do, there's no other option BUT to bash it with a bat heheheheheh.... hammer would be better. 

 

How old or new is your HDD? If I am going to use it again, I simply write NEW data OVER the entire HDD.. TWICE OVER and then format and use it again as a data HDD. Depending on capacity of the drive(s) this can take hours to do if not a day or more.

 

Now if you want to DESTROY HDD and get rid of it, it's a lot faster to physically destroy it than write to it twice and drop into the rubbish chute. It is so much easier to dismantle by unscrewing the HDD unit, break the discs by prying apart each disc from the spindle with screwdriver. And dump after that.

 

First, ask yourself? Why so paranoid you need to go to this level like a secret agent in a movie? heheh. What have you done to warrant this? Are the authority after your or monitoring you that you know of? You're hiding scandalous or top secret information in the drive(s) that people will invest time and highest technology equipment to salvage your destroyed drives the moment you throw them away? You have a reputation of being someone always doing dubious sneaking things. heh Have an IT savvy lover or family member want to hack the HDD as they know you have stuff to hide in your HDD? heheheh...

 

Bro, it is not hard to just dial down the fear factor if your content are just a little naughty porn or selfies (with no one else underage).  Even if you format it once and dump it down a rubbish chute, it is likely to be in a landfill somewhere than someone picking it up to access it. You do not need to pay money for some app to eradicate your HDDs for you heheheh... save the money and buy another HDD.

 

Disclaimer:

Best way to avoid all this, never do anything so immorally criminal that one need to resort to these actions. If anyone who do, may justice prevail over you.

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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Guest ITWoes

Anywhere to repair external hard disk drives? Got 2 Lacie, the female port disconnected or something became like loose CB, computer can't detect anymore.

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2 hours ago, upshot said:

 

If that is what you want to do, there's no other option BUT to bash it with a bat heheheheheh.... hammer would be better. 

 

How old or new is your HDD? If I am going to use it again, I simply write NEW data OVER the entire HDD.. TWICE OVER and then format and use it again as a data HDD. Depending on capacity of the drive(s) this can take hours to do if not a day or more.

 

Now if you want to DESTROY HDD and get rid of it, it's a lot faster to physically destroy it than write to it twice and drop into the rubbish chute. It is so much easier to dismantle by unscrewing the HDD unit, break the discs by prying apart each disc from the spindle with screwdriver. And dump after that.

 

First, ask yourself? Why so paranoid you need to go to this level like a secret agent in a movie? heheh. What have you done to warrant this? Are the authority after your or monitoring you that you know of? You're hiding scandalous or top secret information in the drive(s) that people will invest time and highest technology equipment to salvage your destroyed drives the moment you throw them away? You have a reputation of being someone always doing dubious sneaking things. heh Have an IT savvy lover or family member want to hack the HDD as they know you have stuff to hide in your HDD? heheheh...

 

Bro, it is not hard to just dial down the fear factor if your content are just a little naughty porn or selfies (with no one else underage).  Even if you format it once and dump it down a rubbish chute, it is likely to be in a landfill somewhere than someone picking it up to access it. You do not need to pay money for some app to eradicate your HDDs for you heheheh... save the money and buy another HDD.

 

Disclaimer:

Best way to avoid all this, never do anything so immorally criminal that one need to resort to these actions. If anyone who do, may justice prevail over you.

 

Thanks! Really helpful advice. Not that I'm a criminal, I'm actually the most law abiding person I think there is. I suppose it's just the fear of identity theft and such. So much personal data from insurance, bank information, personal information are nestled within the HDD. Feels safer for it to be obliterated than left hanging for that sliver of percentage where shit may hit the fan. 

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21 hours ago, practease said:

 

Thanks! Really helpful advice. Not that I'm a criminal, I'm actually the most law abiding person I think there is. I suppose it's just the fear of identity theft and such. So much personal data from insurance, bank information, personal information are nestled within the HDD. Feels safer for it to be obliterated than left hanging for that sliver of percentage where shit may hit the fan. 

hahah I put it out there in case those with criminal intention using this to get rid of evidence and I do not want to see police reading this (if you think they do not you are kidding yourself) think I am teaching them how to get rid of evidence heheh

 

As to your fear. If you are Bill Gates and you are seen throwing your HDD into your dustbin outside your house, I am sure someone will be dumpster diving inside that bin to take that out to hack heh... Only people you need to worry more are people closers to you. It is not as easy to salvage data as you might think. I have been building computers for money and as hobby being a tech nerd for over 20 yrs helped numerous friends with their lousy maintenance of their hardwares and HDD salvaging is one of the most common issues I faced. I have spent quite a bit buying pieces of software and bring them to shops on their behalf including companies I worked in, and they failed to get the data back heh. There is a difference between watching a high budget SPY movie and real life. On top of that, I dabble in hacking and even that is not as easy or like the movie all the time. Most hacking tactic are more social using human understanding than true hardware hacking.

 

I recall how the US army dispose of their 'retired' HDD. What they do is hit the HDD with such force to dent it a crumple paper then they grind it up into tiny bits of metal heheh.. You want safe? That is it. LOL

Edited by upshot

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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hahahahahahah... 'help' ?   hahahahahahahahahah

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No techie to help this poor soul?

 

HDDs are a little more complicated and because it is a device that's used to contain digital data. And yes, photo and videos data of the NSFW type. I guess you are worried taking to a shop is embarrassing if your HDD contains porn or your own home-made porn.

 

The short answer: Get a professional to look at it, even over the fear of what notti stuff you have inside. If there are other ultra important digital documentation like your BITCOIN account, other password list and other crucial important data.

 

The long answer and to give you some context to your predicament if no one told you or have not read PAST IT ARTICLES here in BW. No HDD last forever and can die without warning. The safe solution always, ensure you backup your data to at least 2 HDDs. Always.  Beside wear and tear, and usual life span of about 5 yrs... there are many reasons for it to fail or die earlier. I have new HDD that die in less than a week of purchase!

 

I guess no reply to help thus far because NO ONE would like to be responsible for destroying your data accidentally while helping you. Even if he is gay and you trust him with your data if he sees it. If you have only one computer, you are talking about getting another computer to test and analyse your HDD. Might require salvaging software to 'brute read' your HDD to salvage data. Might need hardware connector(s) or PCM interface board to connect HDD eSata (3.5" or 2.5" or SSD HDDs type). These are some reasons why no one responded to you. Lacking the hardware to help unless he happens to work in a PC repair is another reason. If he does, I bet he rather was paid doing it than free as you did not offer any money incentive.

 

I do my own repair and diagnosis on my HDDs/hardware before taking it to the shop if I can't solve it. BUT that's my own risk to my own data. Professionals have hardware to check the HDDs health before starting it up and safety steps to take prior to accessing your data's accessibility or help you back up what can be saved to another HDD from your  damaged one. Sometimes the data is fine but the accessing hardware board or connectors that are spoilt which is the best scenario but even then you need parts or equipment to test that. HDDs are one of those parts that is a lot more subjective for anyone to help. And also, even Professional might not solve it if damage is beyond repair or delicate, resulting in accidental damage. Broken parts like  PC CPU fan, I recently helped a fellow BWer, is a no-brainer. Safe to test and replace. HDDs are not, and it's made complicated for you if you have naughty data on it, and your main reason for not taking it to the shop. This is such a common story on this IT thread if you search it, sorry to say.

 

So now, I hope you understand your situation and make a decision base on some of the details I share here. In case you were wondering why, you got no reply. At least publicly on this thread. If you already got help in PM, that's good.

Edited by upshot
typo and clarity of context

** Comments are my opinions, same as yours. It's not a 'Be-All-and-End-All' view. Intent's to thought-provoke, validate, reiterate and yes, even correct. Opinion to consider but agree to disagree. I don't enjoy conflicted exchanges, empty bravado or egoistical chest pounding. It's never personal, tribalistic or with malice. Frank by nature, means, I never bend the truth. Views are to broaden understanding - Updated: Nov 2021.

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