Cars Discussions

[Guest Guest]

I am still thinking if I should buy a car now

[tyan]

8 hours ago, Guest Guest said:

I am still thinking if I should buy a car now

If there is no absolutely need, dun buy. Or if u have spare money, then buy. 

[Singroc]

Sorry, may I know what is VC?

[Guest Guest]

1 hour ago, tyan said:

If there is no absolutely need, dun buy. Or if u have spare money, then buy. 

How much do you need to spend (monthly average) say for a normal Cat A Korean or Japanese car?

[LeanMature]

If you have no place and need a car to cruise and have fun, then buy.

 

11 hours ago, Guest Guest said:

I am still thinking if I should buy a car now

 

[zyjd]

3 hours ago, Guest Guest said:

How much do you need to spend (monthly average) say for a normal Cat A Korean or Japanese car?

based on an average car price of $85,000 for 1.6l b&b cars, a 70% loan for 7 years with an interest rate of 2.68%, you'll be spending $842 on installments every month.

 

Assuming the car has a tank size of 50l and real life fuel consumption of 13km/l, one tank can bring you 600km before you need to fill up. Assuming you travel 50km daily, you'll have to top up every 12 or so days. Make that twice a month to be conservative. Based on current petrol prices, RON95 at Shell would be $2.09/l. Topping up 45l (you can't possibly use every single drop of the 50l tank), you'll spend $94 per pump.

 

Petrol: $208 per month. (including 2 x $10 car wash after every pump)

 

HDB season parking: $120 per month. (I think)

 

Road tax: $62 per month. ($742 per annum)

 

Insurance: $84 per month. ($1,000 per annum, using 32yo with 30% NCD)

 

Twice yearly maintenance: $125 per month (assuming $1,500 per annum with change of tyres, brake pads etc.)

 

Total cost: $1,441 per month. So yeah, if you can set aside about $1,500 a month for transport, go ahead. Of course, there are way to reduce the costs somewhat (Malaysian petrol and servicing etc.), but this is just a rough guide, lah.

For simplicity's sake, we'll not take the depreciation of the vehicle into account.

[zyjd]

16 hours ago, LeanMature said:

Is it true that cars older than 10 years pay higher road tax as well as the carbon emission tax ?  Also higher insurance ?

you pay higher road tax as the car ages: it goes up by 10% every year up to a maximum of 50%. For insurance, you typically only get 3rd party coverage for COE renewed cars. This is because the market value and residual value of the car typically won't be that far from each other so they wouldn't want to offer comprehensive insurance to you for nothing.

 

On top of that, cars with renewed COE don't have any PARF rebate entitlement - i.e., when you scrap the car, you only get back the remaining portion of the unused COE. For cars below 10 years, the PARF is half of the ARF paid when the new car dealer registered the car back then. The PARF is particularly important to a lot of people because it can amount to a few thousand dollars and they typically use it to offset the downpayment for their next ride.

 

That's not even factoring in the increased maintenance cost. From my experience, cars usually need major repairs at the 12th or 13th year, which is when everything starts falling apart. So if you give up on the car at the 13th year because the repair cost is too high, you get back the unused portion of the COE but you already lost the PARF when you renewed it 3 years ago. After including the forfeited PARF, your annual depreciation would be much higher than getting a new car.

[zyjd]

13 hours ago, Guest Guest said:

I am still thinking if I should buy a car now

want to buy, wait until after this Wednesday when COE bidding is over then buy. Quite sure COE will drop, and the car prices will drop accordingly as well

 

[zyjd]

5 hours ago, Singroc said:

Sorry, may I know what is VC?

Audi Virtual COCKpit

 

 

 

Edited March 19, 2018 by zyjd

[benedict5856]

To me, a car is just a car.

Drive from point A to point B.

 

Buy what u can afford, else take uber or MRT. Don't stress over monthly payment every month. Who knows, u might just lose yr job.

 

Don't buy to impress others. One mountain got one mountain higher.

 

[Nipoet]

Me and my BFF was just talking about car ownership during lunch just now.

 

With Grab and Uber spreading their popularity, the need to own a car now just boils down to prestige.

 

Sure, if you have your own vehicle, you have the luxury of using anytime and anywhere you want. Mid-night cravings for something far from home? Home accidents that require transportation to the nearest hospital?

 

However, are those conveniences really worth the amount of money you'll be dumping onto the vehicle? Apart from these "investments" on "conveniences" and "accidents", is a car really worth its monetary cost now?

 

Just my 2 cents.

[Guest Guest]

1 hour ago, zyjd said:

want to buy, wait until after this Wednesday when COE bidding is over then buy. Quite sure COE will drop, and the car prices will drop accordingly as well

 

Why leh? Share your analysis please. Thanks

[zyjd]

24 minutes ago, benedict5856 said:

To me, a car is just a car.

Drive from point A to point B.

 

Buy what u can afford, else take uber or MRT. Don't stress over monthly payment every month. Who knows, u might just lose yr job.

 

Don't buy to impress others. One mountain got one mountain higher.

 

well said!

[zyjd]

9 minutes ago, Guest Guest said:

Why leh? Share your analysis please. Thanks

general market very quiet. All the dealers not doing very well.

[tyan]

3 hours ago, LeanMature said:

If you have no place and need a car to cruise and have fun, then buy.

 

 

Well said! Haha. Then make sure u have more spacious. Van will be ideal !!

[Guest Guest]

18 minutes ago, zyjd said:

general market very quiet. All the dealers not doing very well.

Govt said economy better but the pple are not feeling it

[Nipoet]

8 minutes ago, tyan said:

Well said! Haha. Then make sure u have more spacious. Van will be ideal !!

 

I'd rather you go buy an apartment for yourself then.

At least when you sell it, you have a chance of making a profit. Or interim renting out could net you some steady income also!

[tyan]

6 minutes ago, Nipoet said:

 

I'd rather you go buy an apartment for yourself then.

At least when you sell it, you have a chance of making a profit. Or interim renting out could net you some steady income also!

car is definitely cheaper than house mah. And car is mobile, house is not.

They are people who sold away their house and buy a yatch.

[Guest Gugu]

2 hours ago, zyjd said:

based on an average car price of $85,000 for 1.6l b&b cars, a 70% loan for 7 years with an interest rate of 2.68%, you'll be spending $842 on installments every month.

 

Assuming the car has a tank size of 50l and real life fuel consumption of 13km/l, one tank can bring you 600km before you need to fill up. Assuming you travel 50km daily, you'll have to top up every 12 or so days. Make that twice a month to be conservative. Based on current petrol prices, RON95 at Shell would be $2.09/l. Topping up 45l (you can't possibly use every single drop of the 50l tank), you'll spend $94 per pump.

 

Petrol: $208 per month. (including 2 x $10 car wash after every pump)

 

HDB season parking: $120 per month. (I think)

 

Road tax: $62 per month. ($742 per annum)

 

Insurance: $84 per month. ($1,000 per annum, using 32yo with 30% NCD)

 

Twice yearly maintenance: $125 per month (assuming $1,500 per annum with change of tyres, brake pads etc.)

 

Total cost: $1,441 per month. So yeah, if you can set aside about $1,500 a month for transport, go ahead. Of course, there are way to reduce the costs somewhat (Malaysian petrol and servicing etc.), but this is just a rough guide, lah.

For simplicity's sake, we'll not take the depreciation of the vehicle into account.

No wonder so many young pple go drive grab. Want car but cannot afford. So become cheap labour. Like prostitute kena fuck backside....

[Guest Gugu]

2 hours ago, zyjd said:

based on an average car price of $85,000 for 1.6l b&b cars, a 70% loan for 7 years with an interest rate of 2.68%, you'll be spending $842 on installments every month.

 

Assuming the car has a tank size of 50l and real life fuel consumption of 13km/l, one tank can bring you 600km before you need to fill up. Assuming you travel 50km daily, you'll have to top up every 12 or so days. Make that twice a month to be conservative. Based on current petrol prices, RON95 at Shell would be $2.09/l. Topping up 45l (you can't possibly use every single drop of the 50l tank), you'll spend $94 per pump.

 

Petrol: $208 per month. (including 2 x $10 car wash after every pump)

 

HDB season parking: $120 per month. (I think)

 

Road tax: $62 per month. ($742 per annum)

 

Insurance: $84 per month. ($1,000 per annum, using 32yo with 30% NCD)

 

Twice yearly maintenance: $125 per month (assuming $1,500 per annum with change of tyres, brake pads etc.)

 

Total cost: $1,441 per month. So yeah, if you can set aside about $1,500 a month for transport, go ahead. Of course, there are way to reduce the costs somewhat (Malaysian petrol and servicing etc.), but this is just a rough guide, lah.

For simplicity's sake, we'll not take the depreciation of the vehicle into account.

Thanks for your time and effort to detail this

[LeanMature]

2 hours ago, zyjd said:

you pay higher road tax as the car ages: it goes up by 10% every year up to a maximum of 50%. For insurance, you typically only get 3rd party coverage for COE renewed cars. This is because the market value and residual value of the car typically won't be that far from each other so they wouldn't want to offer comprehensive insurance to you for nothing.

 

On top of that, cars with renewed COE don't have any PARF rebate entitlement - i.e., when you scrap the car, you only get back the remaining portion of the unused COE. For cars below 10 years, the PARF is half of the ARF paid when the new car dealer registered the car back then. The PARF is particularly important to a lot of people because it can amount to a few thousand dollars and they typically use it to offset the downpayment for their next ride.

 

That's not even factoring in the increased maintenance cost. From my experience, cars usually need major repairs at the 12th or 13th year, which is when everything starts falling apart. So if you give up on the car at the 13th year because the repair cost is too high, you get back the unused portion of the COE but you already lost the PARF when you renewed it 3 years ago. After including the forfeited PARF, your annual depreciation would be much higher than getting a new car.

 

Generally, how much lesser is third party insurance compared to comprehensive one?  Also, how much is the PARF value for a 1500cc car at the end of 10 years ?

[LeanMature]

1 hour ago, zyjd said:

general market very quiet. All the dealers not doing very well.

 

If you are buying a car from a dealer, e.g. at Sgcarmart,  is it normal that you should bargain down the price by 2 to 3K as dealers tend to artificially jacked up the price?

[Nipoet]

3 hours ago, zyjd said:

based on an average car price of $85,000 for 1.6l b&b cars, a 70% loan for 7 years with an interest rate of 2.68%, you'll be spending $842 on installments every month.

 

Assuming the car has a tank size of 50l and real life fuel consumption of 13km/l, one tank can bring you 600km before you need to fill up. Assuming you travel 50km daily, you'll have to top up every 12 or so days. Make that twice a month to be conservative. Based on current petrol prices, RON95 at Shell would be $2.09/l. Topping up 45l (you can't possibly use every single drop of the 50l tank), you'll spend $94 per pump.

 

Petrol: $208 per month. (including 2 x $10 car wash after every pump)

 

HDB season parking: $120 per month. (I think)

 

Road tax: $62 per month. ($742 per annum)

 

Insurance: $84 per month. ($1,000 per annum, using 32yo with 30% NCD)

 

Twice yearly maintenance: $125 per month (assuming $1,500 per annum with change of tyres, brake pads etc.)

 

Total cost: $1,441 per month. So yeah, if you can set aside about $1,500 a month for transport, go ahead. Of course, there are way to reduce the costs somewhat (Malaysian petrol and servicing etc.), but this is just a rough guide, lah.

For simplicity's sake, we'll not take the depreciation of the vehicle into account.

 

1 hour ago, tyan said:

car is definitely cheaper than house mah. And car is mobile, house is not.

They are people who sold away their house and buy a yatch.

 

Tru dat. But if you're gonna pump THAT much amount of money into it ($1,441 per month, from @zyjd's calculations), then you might as well get something back from the investment, apart from the convenience/ease of owning the car.

[zyjd]

2 hours ago, LeanMature said:

 

If you are buying a car from a dealer, e.g. at Sgcarmart,  is it normal that you should bargain down the price by 2 to 3K as dealers tend to artificially jacked up the price?

it really depends. If you are buying an expensive continental car with more than 5 years left, kar kar ask for $8,000 or even $10,000 off.

If you are buying those cars that are left with a year or less, may not have much room to bargain because those cars are quite easily sold and the profit margin is a lot slimmer. $1,000 thereabouts is reasonable, $2,000 if you are very lucky.

 

Just a general guide lah huh. I've never worked for used car dealers before but I have seen my customers' trade-in cars go up online so I roughly know their profit margins etc..

[zyjd]

8 hours ago, LeanMature said:

 

Generally, how much lesser is third party insurance compared to comprehensive one?  Also, how much is the PARF value for a 1500cc car at the end of 10 years ?

for insurance best to check with the insurance agencies. Also depends on the age of the car I guess? If your car is 9 years old and you're insuring it only for a year, then the difference between comprehensive and third party may not be much. 

 

Bear in mind that third party also has 2 kinds: third party fire & theft (commonly known as TPFT), and third party. Former covers your car if it catches fire or gets stolen, latter only covers third party claims. At the end of the day, even if your car gets stolen, fret not: as long as you are the registered owner you are still entitled to the PARF rebate from the government. Only no more car body price to take back.

 

PARF value of a 1,500cc car also differs a lot, but here's a general guide:

 

Toyota Vios 1.5: $6,200

Honda Jazz 1.4: $6,500

Subaru Impreza 1.5: $7,000

Nissan Latio/Sylphy 1.5: $8,000

Toyota Allion 1.5: $9,000

Audi A4 1.4: $13,500

 

*all figures are really approximates only (just keyed them in at the top off my head without double checking on sgcarmart) as the PARF is dependent very much on the ARF and the OMV of the car. There are certain batches of Honda Jazz that have sky high OMVs of $22,000 so the PARF is a whopping $11,000 for a supermini. The OMV of the car is determined by a number of factors, currency exchange rates being one of the chief reasons, so it can and will vary from car to car.

 

 

Edited March 19, 2018 by zyjd

[Guest Guest]

7 hours ago, Nipoet said:

 

 

Tru dat. But if you're gonna pump THAT much amount of money into it ($1,441 per month, from @zyjd's calculations), then you might as well get something back from the investment, apart from the convenience/ease of owning the car.

Get what? Suck cock and fuck inside the car??

[Guest Guest]

should buy car or just rent one Grab to drive.....

[Guest Guest]

Today COE....up or down???

 

HUAT AH....everyone buy ah

[zyjd]

17 minutes ago, Guest Guest said:

Today COE....up or down???

 

HUAT AH....everyone buy ah

guessing CAT A down by $3,000 and CAT B down by $1,000. Haha.

[Guest Guest]

2 hours ago, zyjd said:

guessing CAT A down by $3,000 and CAT B down by $1,000. Haha.

Lets see if u r right

[Guest Confused]

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 1:25 PM, zyjd said:

based on an average car price of $85,000 for 1.6l b&b cars, a 70% loan for 7 years with an interest rate of 2.68%, you'll be spending $842 on installments every month.

 

Assuming the car has a tank size of 50l and real life fuel consumption of 13km/l, one tank can bring you 600km before you need to fill up. Assuming you travel 50km daily, you'll have to top up every 12 or so days. Make that twice a month to be conservative. Based on current petrol prices, RON95 at Shell would be $2.09/l. Topping up 45l (you can't possibly use every single drop of the 50l tank), you'll spend $94 per pump.

 

Petrol: $208 per month. (including 2 x $10 car wash after every pump)

 

HDB season parking: $120 per month. (I think)

 

Road tax: $62 per month. ($742 per annum)

 

Insurance: $84 per month. ($1,000 per annum, using 32yo with 30% NCD)

 

Twice yearly maintenance: $125 per month (assuming $1,500 per annum with change of tyres, brake pads etc.)

 

Total cost: $1,441 per month. So yeah, if you can set aside about $1,500 a month for transport, go ahead. Of course, there are way to reduce the costs somewhat (Malaysian petrol and servicing etc.), but this is just a rough guide, lah.

For simplicity's sake, we'll not take the depreciation of the vehicle into account.

Dude, this is so different from your earlier post. Not sure which is correct or whether your summary can be relied upon. Just an observation. You probably realized your mistakes but given you are working in this line, do hope your info can be reliable. 

[zyjd]

2 hours ago, Guest Guest said:

Lets see if u r right

Oops I wasn't hahah

[zyjd]

2 hours ago, Guest Confused said:

Dude, this is so different from your earlier post. Not sure which is correct or whether your summary can be relied upon. Just an observation. You probably realized your mistakes but given you are working in this line, do hope your info can be reliable. 

This is because I'm a cheapo who does his servicing and petrol up north where most stuff is much cheaper haha. Add in the fact that I don't have to pay for season parking anywhere, you'd see why my costs are about $800 cheaper (which is what my earlier post said), than the calculations I did above.

Edited March 21, 2018 by zyjd

[LeanMature]

21 minutes ago, zyjd said:

Oops I wasn't hahah

 

What's the latest COE price ?

[zyjd]

1 minute ago, LeanMature said:

 

What's the latest COE price ?

CAT A $38,000 (down $830)

CAT B $37,010 (down $1,991)

CAT E $38,000 (down $1,000)

[Guest Not reliable]

1 hour ago, zyjd said:

This is because I'm a cheapo who does his servicing and petrol up north where most stuff is much cheaper haha. Add in the fact that I don't have to pay for season parking anywhere, you'd see why my costs are about $800 cheaper (which is what my earlier post said), than the calculations I did above.

Can't rely on you then. Pity your customers. 

[Guest Guest]

1 hour ago, zyjd said:

CAT A $38,000 (down $830)

CAT B $37,010 (down $1,991)

CAT E $38,000 (down $1,000)

Cat B cheaper...is it better to therefore buy a Cat B car?

 

Besides having to pay higher road tax and fuel, any other disadvantages or advantages？

[zyjd]

2 hours ago, Guest Not reliable said:

Can't rely on you then. Pity your customers. 

Huh? Just because I’m a penny pincher who does stuff up north? Better not trust lots of people then; many singaporeans have a habit of going up north to service our cars, pump petrol, go for massages, and do shopping. I don’t see anything wrong with milking the exchange rate.

 

Anyway you don’t have to trust me or anyone else here if you don’t want to: it’s an online lifestyle forum after all, n’est-ce pas? Like I said before, why take things or what anyone says here so seriously?

 

Edited March 21, 2018 by zyjd

[zyjd]

1 hour ago, Guest Guest said:Cat B cheaper...is it better to therefore buy a Cat B car?

Besides having to pay higher road tax and fuel, any other disadvantages or advantages？

CAT B cars will still typically remain more expensive than CAT A cars due to the generally higher cost of manufacturing cars with a larger engine capacity.

 

However there are some exceptions. For example, the entire Subaru line up is currently only CAT B - they don’t have any CAT A models on sale due to the VES that puts their former CAT A cars at a major disadvantage. Cars like the Subaru Impreza 2l and Hyundai i30 Turbo are CAT B cars but they remain pretty affordable (they’re cheaper than CAT A cars like the Corolla Altis and Honda Civic 1.6).

 

There aren’t any advantages or disadvantages of owning a CAT B car per se - it really depends on what you want in a car. Some people want the big car feel hence they go for CAT B cars like the Hyundai Sonata, some want power so they’ll go for the Mazda 6 2.5, some don’t need the space but want something fun to drive so they get a Volkswagen Golf GTI.

 

But imo, if you just want a simple bread-and-butter fuss-free car that will get you around comfortably, just go for those CAT A mass-market sedans and skip the CAT B cars due to the generally higher cost of ownership.

 

Some cars are CAT B cars even though they are below 1.6l. This is due to the power output of it being above the CAT A cap of 130bhp. However, they still pay the road tax that cars of a similar engine displacement incurs (e.g. the Honda Civic 1.5T would pay the exact same amount of road tax as the Honda Jazz 1.5 even though the former costs more than $30,000 extra to purchase), so recurring costs aren’t necessarily higher unless the higher powered CAT B car is a fuel guzzler etc..

 

Hope this helps!

[Guest Guest]

9 hours ago, zyjd said:

CAT B cars will still typically remain more expensive than CAT A cars due to the generally higher cost of manufacturing cars with a larger engine capacity.

 

However there are some exceptions. For example, the entire Subaru line up is currently only CAT B - they don’t have any CAT A models on sale due to the VES that puts their former CAT A cars at a major disadvantage. Cars like the Subaru Impreza 2l and Hyundai i30 Turbo are CAT B cars but they remain pretty affordable (they’re cheaper than CAT A cars like the Corolla Altis and Honda Civic 1.6).

 

There aren’t any advantages or disadvantages of owning a CAT B car per se - it really depends on what you want in a car. Some people want the big car feel hence they go for CAT B cars like the Hyundai Sonata, some want power so they’ll go for the Mazda 6 2.5, some don’t need the space but want something fun to drive so they get a Volkswagen Golf GTI.

 

But imo, if you just want a simple bread-and-butter fuss-free car that will get you around comfortably, just go for those CAT A mass-market sedans and skip the CAT B cars due to the generally higher cost of ownership.

 

Some cars are CAT B cars even though they are below 1.6l. This is due to the power output of it being above the CAT A cap of 130bhp. However, they still pay the road tax that cars of a similar engine displacement incurs (e.g. the Honda Civic 1.5T would pay the exact same amount of road tax as the Honda Jazz 1.5 even though the former costs more than $30,000 extra to purchase), so recurring costs aren’t necessarily higher unless the higher powered CAT B car is a fuel guzzler etc..

 

Hope this helps!

Thank you for your help. Much appreciated

[LeanMature]

12 hours ago, zyjd said:

Huh? Just because I’m a penny pincher who does stuff up north? Better not trust lots of people then; many singaporeans have a habit of going up north to service our cars, pump petrol, go for massages, and do shopping. I don’t see anything wrong with milking the exchange rate.

 

Anyway you don’t have to trust me or anyone else here if you don’t want to: it’s an online lifestyle forum after all, n’est-ce pas? Like I said before, why take things or what anyone says here so seriously?

 

 

Does they charge you more or change some parts that was not necessary when they serviced a Singapore registered car? 

[Guest Guest]

12 hours ago, zyjd said:

CAT B cars will still typically remain more expensive than CAT A cars due to the generally higher cost of manufacturing cars with a larger engine capacity.

 

However there are some exceptions. For example, the entire Subaru line up is currently only CAT B - they don’t have any CAT A models on sale due to the VES that puts their former CAT A cars at a major disadvantage. Cars like the Subaru Impreza 2l and Hyundai i30 Turbo are CAT B cars but they remain pretty affordable (they’re cheaper than CAT A cars like the Corolla Altis and Honda Civic 1.6).

 

There aren’t any advantages or disadvantages of owning a CAT B car per se - it really depends on what you want in a car. Some people want the big car feel hence they go for CAT B cars like the Hyundai Sonata, some want power so they’ll go for the Mazda 6 2.5, some don’t need the space but want something fun to drive so they get a Volkswagen Golf GTI.

 

But imo, if you just want a simple bread-and-butter fuss-free car that will get you around comfortably, just go for those CAT A mass-market sedans and skip the CAT B cars due to the generally higher cost of ownership.

 

Some cars are CAT B cars even though they are below 1.6l. This is due to the power output of it being above the CAT A cap of 130bhp. However, they still pay the road tax that cars of a similar engine displacement incurs (e.g. the Honda Civic 1.5T would pay the exact same amount of road tax as the Honda Jazz 1.5 even though the former costs more than $30,000 extra to purchase), so recurring costs aren’t necessarily higher unless the higher powered CAT B car is a fuel guzzler etc..

 

Hope this helps!

You sell what car？ 

[zyjd]

25 minutes ago, LeanMature said:

 

Does they charge you more or change some parts that was not necessary when they serviced a Singapore registered car? 

it's a known secret that a car with Singapore plates will command a slight premium - when I was driving my previous Lancer EX, my Malaysian friend went to a car polish company in his Johor registered Mercedes to ask what their rates were like and was quoted MYR150. When I drove my Lancer EX over (this time with the same friend in the passenger seat), they quoted me MYR170. Of course he helped me bargain down to MYR 140 lah. Haha.

 

The workshop I go to doesn't change unnecessary parts and is very upfront and honest about the costs, hence I don't really mind paying a bit of a premium over other Malaysian cars because ahyah, let him earn a bit more, lah. I still save a lot when I do my servicing there compared to Singapore.

[zyjd]

26 minutes ago, Guest Guest said:

You sell what car？ 

not telling. Haha I don't want to be seen as advertising or fishing for sales here. It's just a thread in a forum to chill and talk about all things cars.

[Guest Enigma]

19 hours ago, zyjd said:

 

 

Anyway you don’t have to trust me or anyone else here if you don’t want to: it’s an online lifestyle forum after all, n’est-ce pas? Like I said before, why take things or what anyone says here so seriously?

 

I am utterly confused by you. U made so much effort to post and show that u r knowledgeable (personally, try too hard) and yet u make sweeping statements on "not to take anyone says here so seriously". If so, why u bother to post here? To justify your existence or to impress? U see my confusion. Oh, please refrain from posting an essay to explain yourself. After all, u said not to take your posts seriously. 

[zyjd]

42 minutes ago, Guest Enigma said:

I am utterly confused by you. U made so much effort to post and show that u r knowledgeable (personally, try too hard) and yet u make sweeping statements on "not to take anyone says here so seriously". If so, why u bother to post here? To justify your existence or to impress? U see my confusion. Oh, please refrain from posting an essay to explain yourself. After all, u said not to take your posts seriously. 

Not much effort is involved when I enjoy writing about cars.

 

I post here because I enjoy writing about cars.

 

Making "sweeping statements" on "not taking anyone here so seriously" and "bothering" to post here are mutually exclusive.

 

I have a pretty fulfilling life outside of this forum and I don't need to justify my existence or impress anyone ya, for the record. I don't get extra sales or earn respect or gain fame by posting my opinions here, do I? Ok maybe I do earn some digital respect and fame hahaha is it convertible to money or food though? 

 

(I put in lots of  hoping you feel better from your confusion and what I perceive to be indignance on your end. Life's too short to get annoyed over faceless forumers like me, ya. Have a good evening ahead!)

[LeanMature]

7 hours ago, zyjd said:

not telling. Haha I don't want to be seen as advertising or fishing for sales here. It's just a thread in a forum to chill and talk about all things cars.

 

How about Hybrid cars?  Heard it is expensive to repair if break down.  Is it true ? 

[Guest A neutral view]

1 hour ago, zyjd said:

Not much effort is involved when I enjoy writing about cars.

 

I post here because I enjoy writing about cars.

 

Making "sweeping statements" on "not taking anyone here so seriously" and "bothering" to post here are mutually exclusive.

 

I have a pretty fulfilling life outside of this forum and I don't need to justify my existence or impress anyone ya, for the record. I don't get extra sales or earn respect or gain fame by posting my opinions here, do I? Ok maybe I do earn some digital respect and fame hahaha is it convertible to money or food though? 

 

(I put in lots of  hoping you feel better from your confusion and what I perceive to be indignance on your end. Life's too short to get annoyed over faceless forumers like me, ya. Have a good evening ahead!)

Chill guys....

 

Zyjd, from a neutral 3rd party, given that you are supposedly a car salesman, you should be able to be as accurate or detailed as possible at the first attempt. Anyways, it is OK to make errors due to your inexperience and / or lack of knowledge. (honestly your cost analysis were so vastly different). You will improve over time. We all do

 

BTW, most of us have fulfilling lives (just that we keep them to ourselves). Think your need to quickly justify and thoroughly defend yourself made you an easy target. Again, you will learn through experience, wisdom and maturity. 

 

To all who is giving Zyjd critism, leave him alone. He is new to BW. Cut him some slack

 

Just an old man passing some "pointless and unwanted" wisdom. 

[zyjd]

1 hour ago, LeanMature said:

 

How about Hybrid cars?  Heard it is expensive to repair if break down.  Is it true ? 

Most hybrid cars come with a 10 year warranty on the battery, so that part is covered. However, you'd still have to go back to the agent for servicing because the majority of workshops out there aren't capable of servicing more complex hybrid cars... or the 3rd party ones that do charge an arm and leg.

 

Hybrid cars may not make sense unless you are a very high mileage driver because they cost more to purchase, have very minimal PARF rebates (most are only $2,500) which in turn leads to a higher depreciation than normal cars. Yes they are very fuel efficient but the question to ask is if you'd drive enough to offset the fuel savings from the higher overall cost.

[zyjd]

1 hour ago, Guest A neutral view said:

Chill guys....

 

Zyjd, from a neutral 3rd party, given that you are supposedly a car salesman, you should be able to be as accurate or detailed as possible at the first attempt. Anyways, it is OK to make errors due to your inexperience and / or lack of knowledge. (honestly your cost analysis were so vastly different). You will improve over time. We all do

 

BTW, most of us have fulfilling lives (just that we keep them to ourselves). Think your need to quickly justify and thoroughly defend yourself made you an easy target. Again, you will learn through experience, wisdom and maturity. 

 

To all who is giving Zyjd critism, leave him alone. He is new to BW. Cut him some slack

 

Just an old man passing some "pointless and unwanted" wisdom. 

Thanks for your neutral and unbiased POV.

Will certainly strive to be more careful with my posts and exercise more discernment in my replies.